Food for Thought: Cardiac Triangle’s Newest Additions
by Nick Grudin on March 16, 2006 in Culture
From “on demand” projection TV at Tommy Doyle’s, to California-style burgers at Flat Patties, two fine new establishments have enriched Harvard Square with a bit more variety than KSG students may have been accustomed to. Consumers should rejoice.
Let me rewind for a moment. Since arriving in Harvard Square, my frustration with the cuisine has been acute and sustained. The general selection is as overpriced as it is greasy. Nowhere is this more clear than the cardiac triangle of Pizzeria Uno’s, Charlie’s Kitchen, and Grendel’s Den, which all seem to share a basement vat of butter to soak their entrees.
As depressed - and indigested - as this has made me, I can’t get too upset because I understand the economics of Cardiac Triangle, err, Harvard Square. What I am looking for - healthy and tasty food at a decent price - is economically unlikely to be provided here. In a world-famous neighborhood that comes with a built-in glut of wealthy customers and limited supply of space, restaurant owners with prime spots on the Square simply need to open their doors to make money. The idea of competing for business by lowering prices and/or improving quality is relatively unnecessary. Finding good food in Harvard Square is like looking for a great hole-in-the-wall restaurant in Logan Airport or Times Square - when it comes to eating, this hallowed real estate is the victim of its own success.
So I was amazed this semester to find two notable new restaurants within blocks of the Kennedy School. My expectations were low, but stymied by Cardiac Triangle, I had no choice but to venture yonder.
Flat Patties is a burger joint opened by the mastermind of Felipe’s Taqueria. Located in The Garage in the ominous shadow of Starbucks, Flat Patties takes pride in its simple and inexpensive menu, as well as the thinness of its meat. The burgers are distinct for three reasons - hyper-thin patties of fresh ground beef (they grind the meat on site), delicious grilled buns, and of course, the special sauce. I’ve also been pleasantly surprised by the chicken strips and the chili fries, all of which can be had for under $5. Fans of In-And-Out Burger on the West Coast will be particularly pleased.
The other new addition to the Triangle is Tommy Doyle’s, the palatial new Irish pub across from Upstairs on the Square. On Sunday, I was looking for a place to grab a quick bite to eat where I could also watch the NBA All-Star Game. I called Tommy Doyle’s to see if they were playing the game (you never know with these Irish pubs that air satellite rugby matches around the clock). The woman who answered the phone said, “I don’t think anybody’s upstairs, so we can put it on the projection screen for you” (!!!).
I ended up watching the game on a 150-inch screen while eating a heaping pile of nachos and sucking down a drought Bass Ale. (They even put Desperate Housewives on one of 15 other TVs around the bar, per one customer’s request, which I must admit I followed during the commercials.) While Tommy’s burgers are no match for Flat Patties, that’s great service.
While these two new establishments certainly won’t reduce the threat to your arteries, at least there are a couple of more attractive options from which to pick your poison.
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