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“If you don’t need to go outside - don’t”

by Taufiq Rahim on March 2, 2008 in Blog, Live from Kabul

It took a robust 27 hours and a 9.5 hour time difference to traverse the globe and arrive in Kabul, Afghanistan — apparently a key destination on the ‘hippie trail’ of the 60s and 70s (probably not so much today). The flight plan had me go to Dubai via Amsterdam, take in a layover of about five hours, and then head to Kabul on an airline called “Kam Air.” Things got mildly interesting even before arriving.

In Amsterdam Airport, probably one of the nicest ones around, I of course ran into a recent KSG graduate - Ricardo Castro - who was on his way from Peru to China (the typical encounter). After catching up, I boarded my flight to Dubai, during which I sat next to two conservative hijab-donning sisters, to whom I criticized the marginalization of women within mosques in the Middle East. That kept the journey interesting, especially as they agreed with me.

Now, because the Kennedy School is the Kennedy School, many have been to Afghanistan (although half on military transport planes), and may know the route. For those that don’t, the three private airlines that fly essentially their one plane each to Kabul - for some reason, there is even a fourth one soon to come - depart from the infamous Terminal Two. This is the Belfer Center’s nightmare. Secretary Chertoff would have a field day coming through here.

You have long

On the Way to the Wrong Place
On the Way to the Wrong Place
beards, and short ones, enough ethnic dress to make Senator Obama envy, and a bevy of random people, with random items in disaggregated suitcases. Now Terminal Two is away from the lala-land of Dubai. It is nondescript, away from the main airport, and has no spas/massage centers et cetera (although there is a nice duty free shop, where I saw very haggardly looking and heavily bearded passengers gawking at skin toner). Anyways, Terminal Two is like the Gateway to the Axis of Evil, with daily flights to Kabul, Kandahar, Baghdad, Tehran etc.

After a smooth flight (approx 3 hours) over the most majestic of mountains, and a surprisingly delicious breakfast, I arrived at Kabul Airport, where I was greeted by an official from the Canadian Embassy. I was quickly packed into an armored SUV, and ferried through a small road that represents embassy - or death - row, which is so heavily guarded and safe, that you feel unsafe. After a security briefing where I was told, “If you don’t need to go outside, don’t,” I slithered into a suit - sans shower or shave - and proceeded to my first meetings.

Although you can’t walk anywhere - technically you can - I am lucky that the IMF Guesthouse where I am staying is next to the Canadian Embassy. At night I had the pleasure of reconnecting with an old friend from Dushanbe (Tajikistan) who I had not seen in a couple years, and now works here. We dined at the ethnic Afghan restaurant that serves Italian food with tall Russian waitresses, called Boccacio.

The rest of the week will see me go from ministry to embassy and so forth, as I scurry to my set of meetings for my research. You will be kept apprised. See you tomorrow (figuratively), and next week (literally) - inshallah. Hopefully there will be no bumps in the road. Khudda Hafiz.

Written by Taufiq Rahim · Filed Under Blog, Live from Kabul 

Taufiq Rahim, who hails from Vancouver, Canada, is a 2nd year Master's in Public Policy student at the Kennedy School of Government. As part of his degree requirements, he is currently researching for his Policy Analysis Exercise (PAE), a joint-project with the Embassy of Canada in Afghanistan. He is, as a result, spending the week (Mar. 2-8) in Kabul.

Comments

2 Responses to ““If you don’t need to go outside - don’t””

  1. Yalda Aoukar on March 5th, 2008 11:23 pm

    I’m happy to see that we have a newly Afghani adopted Canadian…
    It’s interesting to see that the cultural shock at the end of the day is pretty mild.
    Apart from armored SUVs you get your standard Italian Bistro, a scenic ride, endless possibilities of touristic attractions for weekend getaways and of course: your baba ghanouj.
    Keep us posted on the nightlife… I wouldn’t be surprise that there is a pop art scene somewhere.
    Stay safe.

  2. Sitora on March 11th, 2008 10:26 pm

    ….some restaurants are really good in Kabul. If you have an opportunity, try to go to a Tajik restaurant called “Samarkand”, it is very good…..

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